Knowledgebase and FAQs
Troubleshooting
Error E-A on the DynaTrol is a rare memory chip issue usually caused by an invalid (too high) temperature setpoint in segments 7 or 8 of a Vary-Fire program—check and lower those values below 2300°F, then reset the segment count; if the error persists after powering down for 5 minutes, the control board likely needs replacement.
Overfires aren’t covered under warranty, so remove any melted clay or glaze, assess the damage, order replacement parts as needed (including a brick repair kit), and always replace the kiln-sitter tube assembly on manual kilns. Automatic kilns rarely overfire unless mis programmed; if unsure, contact L&L for guidance.
If your kiln won't power on, start by checking the On/Off switch, control fuse, branch fuses (for high-amp or 3-phase kilns), plug and cord condition, and verify voltage at the receptacle and power terminal block—if power reaches the control board but there's no display, the control board likely needs replacement; if voltage reaches the transformer but there's no output, the transformer is bad and must be replaced.
ProgrammingMake sure you have programmed the kiln properly and it is supposed to be firing. Do you have a Delay Time or a Preheat Time in your program?
Always verify your voltage—running a 208V kiln on a 240V circuit is hazardous and can overload components, potentially causing a fire; also, regularly check element ohms against factory specs to ensure safe and efficient kiln operation.
If for some reason the thermocouple wires touch the hot kiln case, they may melt and fail.
If power goes off during the Delay countdown, the controller will remember where it was when power shut off.
Getting glaze on the element can cause that to happen.It can also happen sometimes from a combination of things, not involving direct contact with glaze.
Incorrect LoadingIf your kiln is loaded unevenly it can cause the 3-zone control to slow the kiln down to compensate.Try evening out the load.
Keep in mind that you run the risk of over-firing if you re-start while the kiln is very close to the final temperature.
There is a glitch in User 2 program in the 3-button Bartlett.
When this happens, it almost always means the hinge is out of adjustment or set too low on the back of the kiln.
When this happens, it almost always means the hinge is out of adjustment or set too low at the back of the kiln.
Corrosion on a kiln is perfectly normal... mostly because it is a kiln! Hot-to-cold-to-hot environments, plus all the water vapor, not to mention sulfur, fluorine, carbon etc.
If your work is overfired but no error code appears, possible causes include mispositioned or incorrect cones, firing to the wrong cone or with hold time, Vary-Fire programs set too hot for the ramp rate, thermocouple offset needing adjustment, uneven or aged thermocouples, old elements struggling to compensate, or a lid that lifts slightly when hot—check all these factors to pinpoint the issue.
If your kiln underfires without showing an error code, check for misaligned or incorrect cones, firing to the wrong cone or a Vary-Fire or Custom program set too low for the climb rate, incorrect thermocouple offset, a misadjusted or faulty kiln-sitter (including a worn-out tube), or a lid that lifts slightly when hot.
Breakers can trip on the kiln for a couple different reasons. What is important to know is, when does it trip?
Does it trip as soon as you turn the toggle switch on?
When a kiln first turns on, it draws higher "cold amperage" due to lower element resistance, but as the elements heat up, resistance increases (~4%) and "hot amperage" drops—what matters most is the hot resistance and amperage, since that’s what the circuit consistently handles, while the cold values only last briefly and typically won’t trip breakers or fuses.
Service
Unplug the kiln.
Easy instructions for replacing or upgrading your control
How to replace the transformer
L&L sells parts for just about every kiln made by L&L Kiln Mfg., Inc., L&L Manufacturing Co., Inc., and L&L Manufacturing Company.
There are different lengths, but other than that they are all the same size.
Yes, you can buy L&L’s hard ceramic element holders—check the parts list for lengths and prices—but be aware that installing them in a non-L&L kiln can be tricky since they’re designed to fit into specially routed grooves that require a custom tool, though you might manage by cutting a rectangular groove and cementing the holder in place.
Click here for more information.
Click here for more information.
Parts are available directly from the factory and most distributors. We typically ship 1 to 3 days after we get an order.
L&L replacement elements are specifically engineered for each kiln model to ensure long life and optimal performance, and while outside suppliers may offer cheaper alternatives, they often lack the expertise and precision—ultimately leading to poor results and higher costs in the long run.
Remove the kiln sections.
Take the old bottom of the stand.
Put the new bottom on the stand.
Relevel the kiln.
When ordering a new channel, provide the model number of the kiln and the length of the element holder.
Order the firebrick precut and rerouted from L&L Kilns
Simple instructions of how to do this
Remove one of the Cotter pins from the Hinge Bar. Pull out the Hinge Bar. Unscrew the chains from the stainless-steel case of the lid.
How to Replace the Power Relays of Most L&L Kilns.
Unplug kiln.
Remove or hinge open the control box.
Remove the Thermocouple Lead Wire from the Thermocouple.
Details for how to stretch elements
How to check element resistance
Most of our distributors provide repair service. We keep a database with the names of local kiln service people that we find out about. Call us for a name and we'll see if w
We use stainless steel element terminal bolts.
The short answer is no - working on your kiln will NOT void the warranty. L&L kilns are designed for self-service.
Resources
While you can convert a manual J230 to an automatic JD230 by replacing key components—such as the control box, power cord, thermocouples, jumpers, and optionally the elements—the cost of parts and labor often makes purchasing a new kiln more practical.
It is very challenging to do this, and we do not recommend it.
The Jupiter automatic kilns use the same basic kiln sections that made the J Series Econo-Kilns so popular and reliable.
The e18S and e18S-3 have an amperage draw of 23.9 amps. It is possible to supply this with a 30 amp plug.
You can buy shelves and posts separately in any combination.
Yes - we can prepay and add freight charges to your invoice.
Although it is possible to do this, you would have to buy a new control panel for the kiln.
The Pull-Apart Option for Jupiter kilns is a free alternative to the hinge system, replacing it with extra handles, a stand-mounted control panel, and longer cords—though you can still add an Easy-Lift or Standard Hinge later at a discounted price if desired, with some assembly required.
Is UL499 Listing Required?
