We just installed a new L&L kiln (Model e23T-208, Serial # 050916-B-CWK) and L&L Vent-Sure Downdraft Kiln Vent System with the Vent Doubler System so we could also vent our existing Skutt KM1023. My question involves the size of the central duct (which I understand to be the flue that exits the room). If I understand correctly, on page 6, the kiln vent manual states that for 2 kilns the central duct should be 6”. PLEASE KEEP READING! Our central duct is 4”, BUT we will ONLY BE CAPABLE OF FIRING ONE KILN AT A TIME. With the idle kiln dampered off, will the 4” central duct be adequate/acceptable for this situation?
The volume of air to be moved is actually for one kiln at a time only in this scenario so a 4" duct is perfectly acceptable. Some general thoughts: The table on page six of our instructions is meant as a general guideline in any case. The larger size of the duct reduces the static pressure which allows a higher volume of air to flow assuming the same input (our fan in this case).
So I’ve had a Skutt KM818 that I bought used a few years back that wasn’t in too bad of shape, but after changing the elements in it a few times, the bricks were getting so hammered & I had had a few mishaps in it & I was tired of using element pins and it was needing some TLC, so when this J18 appeared on our local want ads, I snagged it up. The top was the only part that looks used. Inside it looks brand new! I took the controller & S-tc out of the Skutt, took the manual controls off the J18 and voila!, you have a LLutt! Fires like a champ! Just thought I would share and I am so glad to not have to change the elements in that Skutt again! I might use it for Raku!!! Sincerely, one of your faithful L&L followers!! Jeff
A customer writes: I have an X3227 DaVinci kiln that I bought in 2000. It has been sitting unused in my studio for about 8 years and I am looking to sell it. While I was looking it over I noticed that the counterbalance cables were slack and no longer supported the lid. I also noticed some of the hardware on the kiln had rusted. I can’t see where the cables hook up to the weights because they are enclosed in the tube, but I’m thinking that perhaps the connection rusted out so that the weights dropped off. Does that make sense? I’m wondering if you could give me some directions as to how I can fix this problem. The only visible area on the counter balance system is the steel cable that attaches to the eye screws at the front of the lid and run upward to the tubes at the back of the kiln. Those cables should be taut but they are slack. If I try to lift the lid it is very difficult because it is not assisted by the counterbalance system and I am lifting the full weight of the lid. Maybe if you could explain how the system works, it would help me understand what has happened. The cables run through the top of the steel tubes on the rear of the kiln along a pulley which I can see at the top of the tube. I'm assuming that the cables are attached to some sort of weights inside the tubes but maybe I'm mistaken. How does the system work? The cables appear to be disengaged from whatever created tension in them.
L&L: Inside the tube there is a spring. Attached to the top of the spring and the bottom of the spring is a metal clip. This is screwed into the spring . Wrapped around the top clip is a wire rope which has a wire clamp on it. Perhaps this has come undone. To get to the assembly you would need to grind off the welds on the bar that holds the spring clip to the bottom of the tube. After you fix the interior assembly you will need to reweld the bar that holds the clip at the bottom of the tube.