Knowledgebase and FAQs
Maintenance
That is a difficult question to answer, as the longevity of a kiln is based much more on how it is being used and maintained, rather than how old it is.
REGULAR KILN MAINTENANCETo keep your kiln in top operating condition, we recommend the following minimum housekeeping:
Relays generally last around 200,000 cycles on average (roughly 18+ months depending on usage, firing temperature, and firing profile), but can fail long before or long after without any explanatio
Under normal circumstances, relays will last many years even when the kiln is fired every day. It is not unheard of to hear about a relay failing, just not very common.
Question: I am about to run my first bisque firing in my new L&L kiln. I have coated the floor of the kiln for the test first fire along with the shelves that I put in for the firing.
If a DaVinci is installed on a smooth floor and the lid is opened a lot, or left open for long periods of time, the weight of the lid will cause the counterbalance to want to lean forward.
Troubleshooting
Running a paper test is a great way to troubleshoot your kiln. With just some scraps of paper and 5 minutes you can determine if you have any elements or relays that need replacing.
One of the most difficult kiln performance problems to address is a problem with the electrical supply to the kiln.
An element connection can begin to glow if it is overheating. There are a few ways this can happen.
A kiln controller reading higher than actual room temperature is normal and likely due to a programmed offset for the thermocouple, so there's no issue as long as it performs accurately during firing.
If your kiln shows an unusually high temperature even when it’s not hot, it likely indicates a failed thermocouple—check for corrosion, cracks, loose or melted connections, and test the thermocouple with a meter for proper resistance (around 0.9–1.0 ohms); if you get an open loop (OL), the thermocouple or its circuit is broken and needs replacement.
The E-4 error occurs when, during a controlled cool-down, a thermocouple reads more than 50°F above the set point for over 18 seconds—often caused by overly aggressive cooling rates, uneven kiln loading, failing thermocouples or relays, or poor thermocouple connections, and can usually be avoided by programming a more realistic cooling rate.
You can toggle error codes on or off may be helpful for special firings like glass or jewelry, but turning them off disables important safety features like dynamic zone control and most automatic error checks—so use with caution.
Err2 occurs during a hold segment when one thermocouple reads 50°F above the set point, often caused by stuck relays, uneven loading, programming mismatches, or thermocouple issues—so check wiring, relay function, and cooling rates, and adjust settings or load distribution to resolve it.
Flowchart for understanding how to fix Error 1, Err1, E-1
Error E-22 (same as E-6) means a thermocouple is wired backward—identify the faulty thermocouple by starting a program, checking which temperature *drops* as the kiln heats, then power off, open the control boxes, and correct the reversed red/yellow wiring at the ceramic terminal; if everything checks out and the error persists, the control may need replacement.
Error E-5 (or "Err5") usually indicates uneven heating in the kiln, often caused by uneven loading, failed or disconnected elements, failing or mismatched thermocouples, a bad relay (often the center one), or even a lid that's out of adjustment—use the paper test and monitor thermocouple readings during firing to identify jumping temps or non-heating zones.
An Errd (or E-d) error means one thermocouple is reading 50°F higher than the current firing setpoint, usually caused by uneven kiln heating, incorrect wiring, thermocouple issues, or stuck relays—most often due to uneven loading, misconfigured thermocouples, power interruptions, or component wear—and resolving it involves checking load balance, wiring, thermocouple condition and placement, element function, and relay behavior.
The ErrP (or PF) error indicates a processor reset during firing, usually caused by power loss, a shorted relay coil, or electrical noise—so check power connections, relay function, transformer, and wire layout, and if it reoccurs, replace the likely culprit such as a faulty breaker.
This is a list of all Error codes
Common kiln error codes indicate issues like a failed thermocouple (tC FAIL), reversed wires (tC--), slow heating or cooling (Err1, ErrF), over-temperature (Errd), or power interruption (ErrP), each requiring specific checks or part replacements to resolve.
Error A (E-A) occurs when one or more segments in a Vary-Fire program—often Segments 7 or 8—have temperatures set too high; to fix it, temporarily set User 2 to 8 segments, review and adjust all setpoints (especially Segments 7 and 8) to below 2300°F, then reset the program to its original number of segments and try firing again.
This usually just means a thermocouple is broken.
A stuck relay in a computerized kiln allows power to flow constantly to one section—even when off—so if you hear humming or feel heat from elements while the kiln is cold and switched off, that section's relay is likely welded shut and needs to be replaced.
If a kiln section stays on even when the switch or kiln sitter is off, it's usually due to a stuck relay with welded contacts—common in 3-phase or high-amp kilns—caused by heat from electrical arcing, misalignment, age, or excessive cycling, and the relay should be replaced.
In DaVinci or Easy-Load kilns, thick elements—especially in corners—may pop out, so instead of using pins, use small ceramic washers to gently wedge them in place until they've settled after firing.
If your kiln won’t power on, first check that the circuit breaker or fused disconnect is fully on, verify power at the receptacle with a multimeter, and ensure fuses or breakers are the correct type and amperage—only perform these tests if you're experienced with electrical work.
To check the control fuse, open the fuse holder on the side of the control box and inspect it—if the metal element inside is melted, it’s blown; you can also test for continuity with a multimeter to confirm.
To check if all elements are working, run a fast program like FAST GLAZE (USr3) until the elements glow red, then carefully open the kiln to visually compare brightness—but for accuracy, test each element's resistance with an ohmmeter, and never touch anything inside while powered.
To verify control board output, use a multimeter to check for 12V DC between terminals AC1 & AC2 and ground (any green wire)—but only perform this test if you're experienced with electrical systems.
Make sure the On/Off switch is turned on. Flip the toggle switch back and forth a few times.
L&L kilns follow standard thermocouple polarity: for Type K, the red wire is negative (–) and more magnetic, and the yellow wire is positive (+); for Type S, the red wire is negative (–) and the black wire is positive (+)—always match polarity markings and use a magnet to test Type K polarity if unsure.
If your kiln isn't powering on, check that the power cord is fully plugged in, reseat it to clear any oxidation on the contacts, inspect for signs of overheating or damage, and ensure the cord is secure and not touching the kiln—only do this if you're experienced with electrical safety.
Power relays control element firing and wear out over time, potentially causing temperature issues or error codes—test them by checking zone temps during firing or using a multimeter to verify coil and output voltage, but only if you're experienced with live electrical testing.
To check for a corroded thermocouple tip, inspect the exposed welded joint—if it's heavily oxidized or poorly welded, it can cause inaccurate or intermittent readings; ensure the wires are securely joined, and if the tip looks fine, the issue may lie with the control board.
To test if your kiln’s transformer is working, use a multimeter to check for 240 or 208V AC on the input side and 24V AC on the output—if the correct input voltage is present but there’s no output, the transformer is faulty; if both are fine, the control board may need replacement—only perform this test if you're experienced with electrical systems.
To troubleshoot power issues, check voltage at the receptacle, disconnect box, and kiln connection—both during firing and idle—ensure no large appliances are running simultaneously, verify wire size (especially if over 50 feet from the panel), and consult your utility about peak usage times.
To diagnose kiln performance issues, use the nameplate data to calculate total expected resistance via Ohm’s Law, then compare it to actual readings taken (with power off) from the plug and branch circuits—check for signs of corrosion, voltage drops, or faulty components like fuses, relays, contactors, or switches, and trace the power path step by step with a multimeter to isolate problems.
In areas with unstable or noisy power, kiln control errors can occur, but a simple solution is to power the kiln’s control circuit separately using a plug connected to a small uninterruptible power supply (UPS), keeping the controller stable during outages or fluctuations—just be sure to wire the control transformer correctly for your voltage, and consider adding a noise filter for extra protection.
LOOK IN THE HIDDEN OTHER MENU ON YOUR DYNATROL
This menu contains the programmable settings for the rest of the features in the DynaTrol.
If your kiln is stalling or firing slowly, start by checking thermocouple readings (press 1,2,3) to identify any lagging zones—then test or replace the affected thermocouple and wiring, inspect relays and elements, check settings like LAG and AULG, and look for uneven loading, loose connections, or worn components; more advanced issues may require multimeter testing and tech support.
For manual kilns, check the power supply, branch fuses, cords, and for short circuits—then confirm the infinitely variable zone switches are turned on (just past the 12 o’clock "off" click), ensure the Dawson Timer is not set to "0," and make sure the Dawson plunger is properly engaged.
You can try to restart the kiln after getting an error code.Some messages, like flashing ErrP and FAIL, will not necessarily turn off the kiln.
For DynaTrol kilns, an uneven center zone temperature may be due to the PID setting—models made from Jan 2006 to Sept 2008 often have it set to 100, which can overheat the middle zone; set PID to 65 (or lower if needed) by navigating to OTHER → 4 → 4 → 3 → OTHER until PID appears, then press ENTER and adjust the value.
The first and easiest thing to do is to change the cycle time of the contactors.
Question: I do a controlled cooling to get even cooling rates. I've been using the User 6 program for the cooling cycle after using the Fast Glaze to fire up.
L&L element holders are designed to let elements expand without pins, but elements can still pop out due to grain growth or settling; to fix this, carefully heat the element (with the kiln or a torch), turn off power, and use pliers to reposition and compress it back into the holder—wedging with high-fire clay bits or ceramic spacers can help keep it in place.
Electrical NoiseExternalSometimes there is electrical "noise" in your incoming line. This is hard to see (except with an oscilloscope).
Kiln sitters require regular inspection and replacement—especially the sensing rod and tube assembly—to prevent overfiring, and if issues like the white button not staying in or no power occur, they may be caused by mechanical blockage, corrosion, wiring problems, or overheating; always refer to the manual for calibration and diagrams, and escalate to multimeter testing if basic checks fail.
On an L&L manual kiln with INF switches, if the indicator light cycles and stays on at HIGH, the switch is working properly; if one light doesn’t come on but others do, it's likely a bad switch—if all lights are out, the issue is probably with the kiln-sitter or the power supply, so check all related components.
