• L&L sells parts for just about every kiln made by L&L Kiln Mfg., Inc., L&L Manufacturing Co., Inc. and L&L Manufacturing Company. 
  • Certainly for all Easy-Fire, Jupiter, J Series, K Series, DaVinci X & T Series, OV Oval Series, SQ Series, H & C Series.
  • Some brick may not be available.
  • Elements are almost never a problem.
  • Some unusual old electrical parts are not available.
  • Kiln Sitters parts are mostly not avaialble.
  • There are different lengths, but other than that they are all the same size. 
  • L&L will not make custom sized element holders except for custom lengths below 4-1/4". 
  • An extra fee applies for custom lengths.
  • See the Parts List for a list of available sizes.
  • A customer writes:

    "Is it possible to buy some L&L hard ceramic element holders from you guys as I am building a kiln and LOVE your holders!!! if so, how long are they? how much per length do they cost."


    You can certainly buy our holders. Just see the parts list for details and prices. However, while it is not impossible to use them on another kiln, you may find it difficult. We route out the firebrick with a special tool that is not commercially available. You can see the shape of this if you look at a photo of one of the holders. Potentially, however, you could route out a simple rectangular groove in your firebrick and then cement the holder in place.

  • You can buy shelves and posts separately in any combination.
  • You can substitute two half shelves for any one full shelf in any furniture kit.
  • You can substitute one full shelf for any two half shelves in any furniture kit.
  • There is a discount for buying it in the kit form.
  • Depending on the quantity of the shelves ordered the shipment may have to go by common carrier freight.
  • It is very difficult to do this and we offer no support for it. The control systems on many older L&L manual kilns were built right into the kiln and you would need to add a control, contactors, etc. and then rewire the whole kiln.

    We recommend talking to Orton if you are interested in that possibility.

  • The Jupiter automatic kilns use the same basic kiln sections that made the J Series Econo-Kilns so popular and reliable.
  • You can purchase a new control box that the old sections will plug into.
  • See the Parts List for pricing on the various panels.
  • Because of the cost of a new panel, it may be worth considering buying a new kiln but, in any case, the option is a possibility. 
  • Be sure to talk directly to the factory if you want to do this. We are using all 20 amp cords and receptacles now and, on some J Series kilns, you may have to change either your plugs or have us put in 15 amp receptacles.
  • We do not make a separate control box to plug our old manual kilns into. We recommend talking to Orton if you are interested in that possibility.
  • The e18S and e18S-3 have an amperage draw of 23.9 amps. It is possible to supply this with a 30 amp plug. This would be a 6 foot cord and the various plug options that are available for the Liberty-Belle kilns are available for this kiln. NEMA 14-30 or NEMA 14-50 would not have an upcharge.

    These 30 amp cords will also work on JD18 and JD18-3 kilns.

    This does not affect the c-MET-us listing.

    Question: I use only half shelves. I'm loaded in preparation for a Long Bisque load, but before I start the kiln on Wednesday night, I want to know whether or not it is okay to use kiln cloth in the firing chamber. Two half shelves are not exactly even at the seam and I have a vessel sink to fire. I solved the slight unevenness by using scraps of kiln cloth (don't know what else it's called*) on the shelf to place the sink on. It seems very stable now, but since then I have not used more than just a wad of the "fabric" inside a kiln before, and not inside my nice, new electronic L&L. The kiln cloth is the material used to line the inside of a raku kiln, I think. A previous teacher gave me a sheet of it to place between the bottom of an old kiln I acquired once and the base it sits on. The pieces I used to put the vessel sink on are the triangular trimmings from that sheet.

    Answer: "Kiln Cloth" is not a technical name that one can be certain of. Here is how to think about this: Have you used this material in the kiln at the temperatures that you are about to go to?

    It is probably some sort of ceramic fiber material. There are various grades of this - all of which go to typical bisque temperatures (1800 Deg F or so). Probably the worst that could happen is that it may disintegrate at a high temperature and lose any structural integrity which could pose a problem for the stability of your load. That ASSUMES it is ceramic fiber. However, what if it is fiberglass? Then it will melt and be a whole lot worse. Be certain this material can take your bisque temperature.

    Question: The school district is looking to purchase a kiln (K-E-23T3/22, 11000W, 208v, 3phase, 40 amp). The cut sheet given to me suggests power from a Delta transformer, we do not have a delta power transformer feeding the panel, we have a Wye transformer configuration feeding the panel for power. Would it be ok to feed the kiln from a Wye configuration instead of a Delta configuration, and should we note on the order form "Electrical Service Confirmation" form that we have Wye transformer configuration not Delta?

    Answer: The three hot legs of your Wye outputs will feed the three hot legs of our Delta inputs. We do not use the Neutral in these kilns. L1 to L2 will be 208 volts, L1 to L3 will be 208 volts, L2 to L3 will 208 volts.

  • Yes - we can prepay and add freight charges to your invoice.
  • Click here for more information.
  • The controller can only tell you how many times a firing has been started since the kiln was brand new. There is no way to reset this counter other than to send it to the manufacturer to be re-calibrated. If you want to just check the counter, you can press Review Program. When it reads FIRE on the display, the next number displayed is how many times it started a firing.

    NOTE: We do a test firing of the control before it leaves the factory so it will not come to you with no counts on the control.

    Although it is possible to do this you would have to buy a new control panel for the kiln. They same is true for Easy-Fire XT and eQuad-Pro kilns.

  • The Pull-Apart Option is a no-charge option. Basically the hinge system is substituted for more handles, a floor-mounted stand for the control panel and longer cords between the control panel and the kiln.
  • If you place an order for a Jupiter kiln with the Pull-Apart Option it will not normally include the Easy-Lift Hinge or Standard Hinge.
  • Instead, it is assumed you will lift the lid off of the kiln with the two sets of handles that are provided.
  • However, if you would like to have the Pull-Apart option and the Easy-Lift hinge, you may order the Easy-Lift hinge for an additional price of 75% of the current charge of the Spring Hinge. See this for the current charge of a 10-sided kiln (22" - 23" diameter) spring hinge. See this for the current charge of a 12-sided kiln (28" to 29"  diameter) spring hinge.
  • You can also purchase the Standard Hinge at 60% off of the cost of a new hinge. See this for the current charge of a standard hinge. These will work fine on a 10-sided kiln, but are not recommended for use on a 12-sided kiln. They could potentially be used, but only with great caution and at your own risk.
  • It is possible to add these hinges after you get your kiln, but there is some assembly required. See this video for information on how to retrofit the spring hinge onto a kiln. The 25% off discount on the hinge will be honored for 6 months after shipment of the kiln.
  • Click here for more information on the Pull-Apart Kilns.
  • For all Easy-Load kilns (except the EL3048): With the door all the way open the kiln will go through a 34-1/2" wide door.

    Removing the door is not a good idea. These kilns are not easily disassembled nor are they meant to be. The door of a EL2436 weighs over 250 lbs. When we hang the door during the manufacturing process we use a forklift to support the weight and four men to get the door into position and bolt it to the kiln body. The brick in the door is fragile, like all fire brick, and will crack or chip easily. Then there are adjustments made to the hinge (there are slots in the hinge plates) to make sure the door is seated properly to achieve a good seal. Without a good seal, the heat will escape through the top and eventually corrode the top plates and tadpole seal of the kiln. Then there are the wiring issues. The wires that power the door elements would have to be removed and replaced properly. If the kiln is not rewired properly there would be serious problems with the kiln shorting out, burning out the control or in a worst case scenario, create a fire hazard. If the door opening is smaller than 34-1/2" (which is a standard size door) then we suggest that it might be less costly for you to have a carpenter open up the door rather than the significant costs involved in repairing a damaged kiln. The repairs to the kiln are not covered under warranty if the kiln is damaged in the course of moving at your location, disassemble or reassembly.

    A customer writes:

    "I have a graduate student who is working with slip dip and burning out fabric. Can this be done safely in our L & L Electric kilns? Are there any concerns or dangers to the kiln? I am comfortable doing the burnout in our gas kilns, but she often has small works and wants to do just one small piece and it seems a waste of gas to fire up a gas kiln. She has done the burnout in her electric kilns at home, but since she moved here for graduate school, her kilns are not hooked up.

    A student here (before my time) caused a rather large fire and did extensive damage to a big electric just a couple of weeks after it was purchased. I heard fire was coming out of every screw hole. The electric all had to be replaced, so I'm a bit nervous about burning out in an electric."


    The answer is that it is a matter of degree. If you put a serious amount of combustibles in your kiln then you will get a fire. If you are doing some burn out - like binder burn out then it is probably OK if you have the kiln well-vented.

    One suggestion is to restrict the amount of air that can get to the carbon while it is heating by putting it in a covered sagger. You want some air of course but by keeping it covered it can't get too out of control if it wants to go up in flames.

    So - some is okay - keep the amount in the kiln at any one time as small as possible - just be careful and be sure you are there and handy with a fire extinguisher! (just in case).

  • There is no problem whatsoever venting the kiln out of the roof as long as you take precautions to protect the opening like you would any roof vent.
  • A multi-mounting bracket comes with the vent system to make this easy.
  • We recommend that you install your kiln on a separate line coming out of your main electrical box.
  • It should have its own circuit breaker or fused disconnect switch.
  • See our great installation checklist and description of various important considerations you need to make before you buy a kiln.
  • Kilns have been operated for years without the newer ventilation systems.
  • Kilns without vents are normally vented by propping the lid open during the first part of the cycle when the ware gives off fumes.
  • However, a powered downdraft type of vent, like the Vent-Sure that L&L makes, automates this process, improves air circulation and heat distribution in the kiln, and ensures good venting of the fumes to the outside.
  • You MUST be sure to vent fumes generated by a kiln to the outside. Some of these, such as carbon monoxide, are hazardous.
  • Helpful Tips
  • What should I do to ventilate my kiln?
  • See this for helpful tips on how to ventilate.
  • See this for how to calculate ventilation requirements.
  • Where should I put my kiln?
  • Ventilation cautions
  • Corrosion and ventilation
  • If you are using a hood type vent (like the Vent-a-Kiln) do you need a kiln vent (like the Vent-Sure) also?
  • Yes - the Quad element system features really large diameter elements and lots of element surface area. The OD of the element is almost 1/2" vs. a more typical 1/3" found in other brands. The wire gauge is typically 12, 13 or 14 gauge with very low watt density.

    So far our customer's experience has shown that, even in very demanding applications like crystalline glaze firing, A1 standard alloy elements work great. We have seen customers get over 130 firings with the Quad system using just A1 alloy.

    APM alloy would be icing on the cake.

    The following kilns can be ordered with 480 volts:
  • DaVinci kilns including all Bell-Lift models.
  • Jupiter 2900 (28" and 29" diameter) models.
  • Easy-Load Kilns.
  • ELC Car Bottom Kilns
  • Special models
  • There are three issues that must be addressed with venting a kiln.

    Safety with fumes: you need to get any carbon monoxide and other fumes generated by the ceramic process out of the kiln and the room.

    Safety with heat: you need to remove heat from the kiln room. You must have ambient ventilation in a small room for heat and to remove fumes that may not be fully removed by the kiln vent. If you have a very large room that can dissipate heat and trace fumes than you may not need ambient ventilation.

    Kiln Performance: The ceramic process will generate corrosive fumes, steam and acids from the combination of chemicals and water in the clay heated to high temperatures. This can be extremely corrosive to the kiln itself.

    The Vent-Sure is designed to remove fumes that are generated in the kiln from the kiln and therefore from the room. The Vent-Sure downdraft kiln vent does not remove enough heat from a small room to be used for ambient ventilation. 

    If you have a good overhead vent hood you may discharge the output of the Vent-Sure into that hood. However an overhead vent or a room vent alone will not address the kiln performance issue. In fact this can be such a problem corroding the kiln and reducing element life that we reflect this in our warranty.

    See this for general information about venting.

    See this for how to calculate ambient ventilation requirements.

    See our installation checklist for more information.

    See this caution: Ventilation is Essential.

    See this caution: Sprinkler Cautions.

  • The JD18, JD23 and JD2918 control panels all come with three-zone capability.
  • Therefore you can easily add a section later to make the kiln into either a JD18X, JD230 or JD2927.
  • The cost is slightly higher plus, of course, the cost of shipping.
  • For larger kilns like the JD230 or JD2927, if you anticipate making the kiln larger, you should special order a larger control panel (four or five zones).
  • You can also add a powered bottom to a JD23 and JD2918 
  • Contact the factory for more information.
  • L&L exports through both international distributors in some countries and directly where we do not have a distributor.
  • See our list of international distributors.
  • Orders for export will be shipped by ocean or air, freight collect.
  • Mexico and Canada can ship by common carrier. Import and export licenses, duties, tariffs, etc. are expenses due from the purchaser.
  • We will ship to a USA based forwarder or exworks.
  • Orders in Europe should be handled through one of our authorized European distributors because of CE marking requirements.
  • Click here for more export information.
  • We do not make an automatic control to plug a manual kiln into.
  • There is no way to easily zone such a system, although you could use the manual zone switches on an L&L kiln to control the zones.
  • Orton makes such a control. Call Orton at 614-895-2663 or look at there web site for more information. Check this out.
  • If you buy a control from Orton, you will need to get support for this from them.
  • Repair Service
  • If you have a problem that you are unable to fix yourself with most L&L instrument panel you can send it to L&L for inspection and/or repair.
  • We will need your serial number, model, voltage, and phase to advise you.
  • Most problems can be fixed without going through this trouble however.
  • What Happens?
  • Remove it from the panel (you may want to leave the kiln sitter attached) and carefully pack it and send by UPS or FedEx.
  • L&L will inspect it and advise you of repair charges before proceeding.
  • There is a non-refundable $75 inspection/handling fee for this service.
  • Repair charges are extra but there is no extra handling or packing charge to send it back, only the cost of UPS or FedEx charges.
  • We can not reliably estimate repair costs over the phone.
  • The worse case is, of course, that you would need to buy a new instrument panel. If this is advised L&L will apply the inspection fee against the cost of a new panel. We charge $85 per hour for our shop time.
  • Important!
  • A customer asks:

    I want to purchase an electric, cone 10 kiln for hobby use. I want to store and use it in my garage. I am not concerned about the fumes as I have a door with a screen door that I can leave open during firing. Is this adequate? I am concerned about flammability with my gas water heater pilot light. I could position the kiln away from that but the doorway is near the water heater and so the fumes could be drawn toward that exit. I also keep my car in the garage but would not take it in or out during firing. Is there a fire risk with that? It is a newer car, has no gas or oil leaks. It is a large garage, 2 car plus workshop area so I could park the car away from the kiln while using it. Could you please advise me on the best way to make this work safely?


    Lets take this step by step.

    1) You are fine with any fumes coming out of the kiln in a well ventilated place - as far as your own safety is concerned.

    2) There are no flammable fumes coming from the kiln so you don't need to worry about creating a hazard with an open flame.

    3) The only real potential hazard is the kiln as a potential ignition source because the case gets hot. As long as there is nothing overtly flammable - i.e. spilled oil, gasoline, etc and as long as you keep any flammable items like wood and paper at least 36" away from the kiln you should have nothing special to worry about.

    Question: We are getting ready to move long distance and wondered how we can pack/box/crate our kilns so they are protected in transit. 

    Answer: The way we pack them in the factory would be rather difficult without specialized boxes and foam-in-place machines. We would suggest packing it on a wooden skid with 1" Styrofoam on the bottom and then in between each layer. Put the rings down first, then the top, and then using some styrofoam spacers, put the bottom on top of the top (the last thing at the top should be the kiln bottom slab). Then wrap everything tightly in stretch wrap (70 gauge is fine) so it is one integrated solid mass. Then strap the whole mass to the skid protecting the pressure of the strapping at the top with some wood. This assumes you are moving this in a moving van and not by common carrier - which would require much more packaging than what we are describing.

  • Setting up any of our kilns is very simple.
  • The sectional design of most of our kilns (see below for all the series this applies to) makes moving the kiln exceptionally easy - even down steps or through narrow doorways.
  • The DaVinci counterbalance comes apart. Two people can carry the largest standard DaVinci section. Just locate and level the stand, stack the sections, plug in the control panel and have an electrician hook up power.
  • If you bought a vent you will need to install the motor on an outside wall.
  • Set-up instructions (with photographs) are attached to the outside of the carton and take you through the process step-by-step starting with unpacking. 
  • What any videos we have on our Video Library that pertain to your kiln.
  • Talk to your local distributor.
  • Email our factory for a shipping quote (if you are buying direct from the factory).
  • Provide Model Number and any options you will be purchasing.
  • Provide your address.
  • For Easy-Load Front-Loading kilns fill out this form.
  • For eFL Front-Loading kilns fill out this form.
  • The serial number is on a data nameplate affixed to the control panel and represents the date the kiln was made.
  • Usually the last two digits (before any suffixes) are the year in which it was made.
  • For instance a kiln with the Serial Number 0992A would have been made in 1992. The "A" in this number is just a sequential number for the day.
  • Recent serial numbers have the distributor coded in a suffix.
  • See pictures of data nameplates.
  • We are open from 8:30am - 4:00 pm EST Monday through Friday.
  • We do not have a store or showroom but we may be able to show you models that are in production.
  • Please call ahead for an appointment to make sure there will be someone available to help you.
  • Call the factory (Toll Free:877-455-5456, Regular Phone:856-294-0077)
  • Fax the factory (856-294-0070)
  • Email the factory: (sales@hotkilns.com)
  • Click here to see our list of important questions to ask yourself before ordering from the factory.
  • Placing Posts
  • Place posts a few inches in from the edge of the shelf. Posts positioned on the shelf edges tend to allow the shelves to warp sooner.
  • Use 3 posts per shelf, this will allow the shelf to sit without a wobble. Use 4 for heavier loads, especially on the very bottom. Using more than four posts may cause your shelves to crack or warp prematurely.
  • Always put the posts for the next shelf right on top of where the posts are holding up the shelf below. All the posts should be in a line from top to bottom.
  • Placing posts on their sides under the bottom shelf to distribute the weight is best as long as the bottom shelf's height is not even with or higher than the bottom-most side element.
  • Half shelves at the same height as each other can share the posts where they meet.
  • The Vent-Sure is controlled with a manual on/off switch on the cord of the vent. You could also plug it into a switched circuit if you want to. It can be on the whole time the kiln is firing.


    We also sell a vent control that works on any kiln with a DyaTrol or Genesis.

    We get asked this question a lot. We don't have any real way of knowing. A kiln, or any possession for that matter, is valued at whatever someone is willing to pay for it. That being said, you can find the price of a comparable new kiln on this web site and then discount it at least 50% or more depending on condition.  It depends completely on how much it was used and the condition of the different parts. In good shape- i.e. minimal corrosion, clean and flexible wiring, newish elements, no brick damage you might expect to get maybe 50% of a new kiln depending on the market and the age of the kiln in terms of technology (i.e. manual vs. automatic control). Itemize the condition of the case, the interior and the wiring and discount from there. If wiring has to be replaced then discount it another 25% from list. If elements have to be replaced then discount at least 15% from list. If the brick interior need extensive repair then it is worth little or nothing (one reason L&L kilns hold up in value, by the way).

    All that being said we have heard of people buying used kilns for no more than $200.00 to $300.00.

    When it comes to garage sales, a good rule of thumb is to sell the item for a third of what you paid for it originally.

    Listing on Ebay and Craig's List and searching Ebay and Craig's List is also a good idea. Also talk to any local pottery shops or art centers where pottery classes take place. There may be students who would be interested.

  • You can download almost all of our instructions (including those for older models) from our PDF Library.
  • See Parts list if you want to order a manual.
  • A customer asks:
  • What are the advantages of a powered bottom?
  • Do the extra heating elements help the kiln get to temperature easier?
  • I might have to make a choice between a powered bottom in a smaller (less tall) pull-apart Jupiter kiln or a non powered bottom in a taller pull-apart Jupiter kiln because of amperage limitations in my home.
  • What do you recommend? 
  • Our answer:
  • Powered bottoms are particularly useful for very dense loads like firing lots of tiles.
  • The larger the bottom the larger the unheated surface area (especially in relation to the sides), the more an unheated bottom will affect the evenness of temperature. For instance a T3427 DaVinci kiln that is firing lots of tiles can really use a powered bottom. (By the way we find that even with such a kiln and load that the powered bottom is generally turned down to 50% of output).
  • You generally do not need a powered bottom to enable the kiln to reach temperature. The exceptions to this are the 18" high JD23 and JD2918 which need extra power to heat up to Cone 10. However, you can always get an e23S or e28S kiln and be perfectly fine with heat up capability.
  • A downside to powered bottoms is that ceramic chips, dust, etc can get into the element groves and cause trouble.
  • If you were choosing between a powered bottom and an extra ring you will get more power as well as more space with the powered ring.
  • The vent is separate from the kiln.
  • Generally speaking the vent is powered by its own 120 volt circuit (or for most non-USA locations a 220 to 240 volt standard plug power supply).
  • However, sometimes you see the vent, the ambient exhaust fan and the kiln power all connected to a big switch upstream from the kiln. 
  • This forces the user to have the fans on if the kiln is on in case they forget to do it.

  • See this option for controlling the vent.
  • Available for any kiln with a DynaTrol or Genesis control.
  • We do not have any specific engineering recommendations for installing a vent hood over a kiln. However, as a general principle you will want to have the vent hood as close to the kiln as practical to maximize the focus of the vent suction. The countervailing factor is the height of the kiln lid when raised and any ergonomic factors such as does the vent hood present a bump hazard for personnel. A typical installation for a 27" high kiln might be a little over 6 feet from the floor.

    In addition to a hood vent you may also want to consider putting in one of our Vent-Sure Downdraft Vent systems and expelling the output of that into the hood.

  • It is not normally cheaper to run kilns on three phase power vs single phase power.
  • You still use the same amount of KW hours regardless of the phase of the power.
  • In some areas there may be cheaper rates for three phase power so you might check on this if three phase is available to you.
  • The main reason that three phase is used is that the size of the wires and circuit breaker or fused disconnect is dramatically smaller than with single phase for the same amount of KW.
  • This is particularly important for larger kilns.
  • On our Easy-Fire kilns we take advantage of the fact that we can get more power from 3 phase and still keep under the 48 amp limit for the power cord.
  • Kilns used on
    • All L&L top-loading kilns are sectional.Front-Loading kilns are not sectional.
    Why do we use sectional construction?
    • Sectional construction makes it easy to move, set up and disassemble the kilns for maintenance.
    Diferences in sectional Construction
    • On Jupiter and Davinci kilns the sections are completely separate from the control panel. Each section has its own plug that plugs into a special receptacle in the control panel. This makes it easy to disconnect the control panel and send it to the factory for expert service if ever necessary.
    • On Easy-Fire, School-Master, Quad-Pro, and Liberty-Belle kilns the panel attaches to all sections but is designed to be easily removable.
    Expanding and Reducing Capacity
    • Because of this unusual ease of assembling and disassembling our Jupiter and Davinci kilns some people over the years have used this feature to expand or contract firing capacity as needed.
    • This can be useful for firing small loads while still maintaining a larger firing capacity.
    • It can also be useful for loading the kiln. This can still be done but there are some considerations to be aware of.
    Jupiter Kilns
    • The old style standard hinge used on the J18 and J18X is attached to the top section only. The hinge pin easily removes by removing a clip-on cotter pin. It is quite easy with this style hinge to take the top off and then remove one or two sections. The sections are not held together with latches but rely on gravity to keep them together.
    • The “Easy-Lift, Easy-Load” spring loaded counter balanced hinge is standard on the larger 10-sided and 12-sided kilns. This is a great hinge design but it is not as easy to take apart.
    • One of the nice features of this hinge is that it connects the upper three sections (or two sections and the bottom) together into one unified assembly. Again – a nice feature - and the reason the lid can sit so far back when loading the kiln - but one that does not lend itself to being pulled apart.
    • The control panels on four and five section kilns are also attached to two sections.
    The "Pull-Apart" Option for Jupiter Kilns
    • Our Pull-Apart option offers a solution to customers who definitely want to assemble and disassemble their kilns frequently. It offers the freedom to move the sections over their work.
    • To get around the above issues we offer a variation in our Jupiter line, which is meant just for those people who definitely want to assembly and disassemble their kilns often.
    • This option consists of not putting a hinge on the kiln at all, having four handles on the top, and mounting the control panel on a floor stand like we do on the DaVinci control panels. The sections are not tied together. We provide 45” long cords on all the sections. There is no charge for this option.
    •  See here for more information on Pull-Apart Kilns.
    DaVinci Kilns
    • The DaVinci kilns all come with the standard spring loaded counterbalance system.
    • This system actually supports the door independent from the kiln sections with the exception that two stabilizing arms are attached to either the second section or the third section. All the sections above these stabilizing arms can be easily removed from the kiln without disassembling the door system. This is primarily useful for loading.
    • However, if you do want to adjust the size of the kiln all that is required in addition to removing a section or two is to loosen up the clamps holding the door assembly to the counterbalance assembly and adjust it up or down.
    • You can order a DaVinci with the stabilizing arms attached to the second section (this is the way it has to come for the two-section kilns). This would allow you to remove the third section. However, only two sections can be above the section with the stabilizing arms. Therefore a DaVinci kiln with stabilizing arms on the second section can only be a maximum of four sections high (36” high).
    Control Considerations
    • The DynaTrol is easily programmable to allow for one, two, or three-zone operation.
    • So if you had a three section kiln like the JD230 and wanted to fire the kiln as a JD23 with two sections you would simple plug the two sections into two of the receptacles on the panel and program the DynaTrol for two-zone operation.
    • For larger kilns like the JD230 or JD2927, if you anticipate making the kiln larger, you should special order a larger control panel (five or six zones). For instance if you want to buy a JD2927 now but may want to expand this to a JD2936 in the future you should buy a larger panel with five circuits. You can see the price differential in our parts list. The differential between the two panels is added to the price of the new kiln. For instance if you are buying a JD2927 with a JD2945 five circuit panel you would subtract the price of the JD2927 three circuit panel from the price of the JD2945 five circuit panel and add this difference to the price of the kiln.
    • The same principle applies for DaVinci panels. However, on DaVinci kilns the size of the control box is physically sized for either five or six circuits (the six circuit boxes are for five section kilns with powered bottoms). This means that you could have the factory add a circuit in your current box in the future without making any investment now. This gets a bit more complicated if you are getting or planning to get a powered bottom with an automatic kiln. This is because the wiring for the powered bottom is slightly different on automatic kilns (i.e. where it gets its control output from) and you would not plug a regular section into the powered bottom circuit or vise-versa.
    • Consult factory if you have specific questions.
  • Powered bottoms are available on Jupiter kilns with 22-1/2", 23-1/2", 28" and 29" diameters.
  • Powered bottoms are available on DaVinci X2800, X3200, T2300 and T3400 series kilns. 
  • We recommend this option for a few different reasons
  • If you are firing very dense loads such as tiles.
  • On very large kilns such as the T3400 Series, where you could get a cold spot in the floor, a powered bottom will improve uniformity.
  • To decrease cycle time and add KW to the kiln - not normally an issue with ceramics, but it can be for some industrial processes.
  • To increase the temperature rating of a JD23V, JD23V-3 or JD2918-3 kiln.
  • Another benefit of a powered bottom is that it increases the element life by allowing all the elements to not work as hard, but achieve the same results.
  • See this video for how to adjust settings on a powered bottom.
  • There are variety of opinions about this. It depends on how much moisture is in the clay. If you detect moisture on a mirror coming out of the peepholes even if the vent is on then you need to do more to get the moisture out of the kiln.  Prop the lid up for the first few hundred degrees about 1/2" with a piece of clay or ceramic.

    A customer asks:

    I have an Easy Fire kiln. When I fire it I lock the lid with the lid latch. A friend recently told me that this is incorrect and could damage the lid. Can you tell me if the lid should be locked during firing.


    The latch is there to be used to lock the lid in the front - otherwise it will want to rise slightly while firing. It is still free to move in the back to relieve stress from expansion.

    Some people decide they need to fire their kiln unattended. Often this is at night.

  • There are several reasons that you may want to fire a kiln at night:
  • Sometimes you can get cheaper electrical rates.
  • Often, there is not a voltage drop at night in areas where power conditions are not great.
  • Sometimes you need to if the cycle is too long for you to be near the kiln the whole time.
  • If you decide to do this, you must be extra careful of conditions near the kiln.
  • Make sure there are no flammables nearby.
  • You should have a good fire alarm or automatic sprinkler system. Check the temperature rating of the sprinkler head. It should be the maximum temperature rating allowed by your local authorities. One of the worse things that can happen with an unattended kiln is to set off a sprinkler. This can cause many thousands of dollars of damage in an unattended building.
  • You may want to check with your insurance company or the local fire marshal to see if there are any restrictions for your specific location.
  • Make sure your kiln room is properly ventilated for heat buildup.
  • You will need an automatic control to do this because of the Time Delay feature.
  • Make sure your kiln is working and in good condition. All wires, cords and bottom should not be compromised in any way.
  • You must be sure to be around the kiln when it is at the end of its firing to protect against overfiring. This can be accomplished easily with the Time Delay Feature. Estimate the cycle time first and then calculate the start time of the kiln cycle so that it reaches maximum temperature when you are present.
  • If you are doing this in an institution such as a school we recommend letting a night custodian know of it so they can check on it during the night.
  • We recommend making a checklist for yourself. For instance:
  • Exhaust Fan on
  • Door to kiln room open or some way to make sure there is no heat build up
  • Delay Time set properly
  • No flammables nearby (within 10 to 15 feet)
  • Kiln lid closed (and locked if you have a latch on the kiln lid)
  • Use the Program Review to make sure the program is proper (i.e. especially make sure you are firing to the correct cone with the clay and glaze that you are using)
  • There is always the danger that something can go wrong. Remember - it is your total responsibility to make sure that all conditions are correct and acceptable. Automatic controls can fail. Almost always this is in a failsafe condition where the kiln just turns off. However, if something in the kiln were to melt and burn a hole through the bottom ask yourself what is the floor made of and what is likely to happen? In other words you need to exercise common sense and take responsibility for the entire action.
  • Consider getting the KISS software system and setting it up to allow remote monitoring of the kiln through a computer or consider upgrading to a Genesis control and use the free app for monitoring.
  • See this Caution.
  • Graded elements are one way kiln manufacturers adjust for the natural top to bottom temperature variations in a kiln. 
  • Graded elements are great when a kiln is brand new. However, elements age and with different elements in the same kiln they will age at different rates. If you have to change one element (ruined by glaze, for instance) and not the whole set of elements, your kiln may not be so even. This process is also accelerated by higher temperatures.
  • Zone control dynamically deals with any such changes and maintains its evenness over time and under different loading conditions.
  • L&L uses graded elements on its new School-Master kilns because the temperatures are not so extreme and it allows us to use the less expensive single zone controllers.
  • Don't sign the Delivery Receipt if you notice the shipping damage.
  • If you do sign it, sign it with mention of the damage.
  • What you do may determine how helpful the shipping companies will be.
  • Contact your distributor or L&L Kilns immediately. DELAYS IN REPORTING CAN DISQUALIFY A DAMAGE CLAIM.
  • Click here for more information.
  • All L&L Kilns that are over 48 amps are direct wired. That means that there is a power connection block inside the control panel. You will need to have an electrician run a cable or wires in a conduit or flexible liquid tight conduit from your power supply (circuit breaker panel or disconnect switch) into the kiln control panel. Because of all the the possible variations L&L does not provide any of the materials or cables for this.

    What is a GFCI or a GFI Breaker or Outlet?
    • A 'GFCI' or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, sometimes called a 'GFI' or Ground Fault Interrupter is part of either an outlet or a circuit breaker.
    • It is typically required for added safety on any circuit that may come in contact with water, like outdoors, or kitchen, or bathroom.
    • A GFCI measures the amperage on both the hot and the neutral wires in a 120 volt circuit, or it measures amperage on both hot wires in a 240 volt circuit. 
    • If there is more than about a 5 milliamp difference (5 thousandths of an amp difference) between the amperage readings of the wires the GFCI acts like a circuit breaker and shuts the power off. 
    Why might it trip when used with an electric kiln?
    • In a kiln, the firebrick is not a perfect insulator, so a tiny bit of the current leaks from the elements to the safety ground and unbalances the current in the 2 hot wires. 
    • The resistance of the brick goes down as the temperature goes up so the kiln may be able to start a firing and but the GFCI would probably trip as the temperature went up. 
    • Above 1700 F is when the firebrick has a significant drop in resistance. 
    • Due to the nature of the firebrick in a kiln, GFCI protected circuits are not recommended for use with the power circuits in electric kilns without special element insulators. 
    Is UL499 Listing Required?
  • The ultimate authority for this is a local authority such as a local code official.
  • This is mostly a concern in public buildings (rather than in homes).
  • Usually it is not a requirement but this does vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction.
  • If you are planning to buy a kiln that is not UL499 listed for a public building like a school, you should check with your local code inspector to be certain.
  • What is a testing laboratory?
  • UL stands for Underwriter laboratories.
  • MET stands for MET Laboratories.
  • Both of these organizations are independent testing laboratories known as "Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratories". They test all kinds of products to specific standards. Although UL is the largest of these laboratories, they have no special significance.
  • What is the UL499 standard?
  • Kilns are tested to the UL499 standard which specifies a whole series of electrical standards, temperature ratings, failure states, etc.
  • Any local approval agency or authority in the United States will typically accept either of these listings (and others) as proving that a product meets minimum safety standards in regards to electricity and fire.
  • It is particularly important in school or institutional settings.
  • However, there is no national requirement to have this listing.
  • The small "c" in front of the listing (c-MET-us) means that it is tested to Canadian standards. The small "us" at the end means that it is tested to United States standards.
  • Why are some kilns not listed?
  • Every series of kilns needs to be separately tested to be listed. This is a very time-consuming and expensive process and it is not economically justified for some models.
  • We design all kilns to National Electrical Code and UL499 standards as we interpret the standard.
  • Which L&L Kilns are Listed?
  • See this complete listing of kilns that are listed and not listed.
  • Branch Fusing Included On High Powered Units
    • According to the the National Electrical Code electrical equipment needs branch fusing when the total amperage draw is higher than 48 amps. 
    • Branch fusing means that each element circuit is separately fused. There are two cartidge type fuses in a fuse holder for each element circuit. We fuse right before the power contactor.
    • This requirement also coincides with the use of direct wiring of the kiln. All kilns that we make that are above 48 amps do not have a plug or cord. They must be direct wired.

    Where is Branch Fusing Used?

    • All DaVinci kilns
    • High powered Jupiter kilns
    • eQuad-Pro kiln
    • Some JH Series Kilns
    • Some Easy-Fire XT kilns
    • Some eFL Kilns
    • Easy-Load Front Loading Kilns

    To see more click here.

  • One, your kiln will last much longer. We have seen L&L kilns that are 20 and even 30 years old that look and function like new kilns. The firebrick around the element grooves in our competitors' kilns is easily subject to breakage. All it takes is a kiln shelf hitting the brick near an element groove and you have a BIG problem. Bang hard on a Dyna-Glow element holder and nothing much happens.
  • The other reason, which is logically clear, is that the wall on the Dyna-Glow element holder that holds the element in is only 1/16" thick and is made of hard dense non-insulating ceramic. This transfers the heat of the element much better than the highly insulating firebrick wall (typically 1/4" or more) that you will find on competitors' kilns.
  • Another great feature is that the expansion and contraction of the element coils does not kick up brick dust, which can get on your precious ware.
  • Element life is longer because elements stay in their hard grooves and don't droop out.
  • L&L absorbs the cost of this great feature so you can get a better, longer-lasting kiln for the same or not much more than you might pay for another brand.
  • Learn more about L&L's ceramic element holders.
  • The only difference is the amperage and watts. The JD230 (and JD230-3 with 3" brick) are designed with the same elements that we used for 50 years in the J230 kilns (43 amps at 240 volts). We kept the element design the same simply for legacy reasons so if customers replaced their kiln with exactly the same model they would not have issues with an older electric al system.

    In the older J230 manual kilns the power limiting device was the manual switches. In the automatic electronically controlled JD kilns the limiting device is the power contactors which can handle more amps.

    The JD230-EZ has the same amperage, watts and elements as an e23T-3 (48 amps total which works on a 60 amp circuit). It will easily reach Cone 10.

    The bottom line is this: If you have a typical 60 amp circuit for your kiln and no issues with your electrical system then get the JD230-EZ or JD230-3-EZ.

  • The DaVinci kilns are normally larger and are square and rectangular in shape.
  • For some the shape is critical (for tiles, for instance) and makes the kiln more efficient in terms of usable space.
  • For others the size is the issue; there are few other sectional kilns that are made this large.
  • The counterbalanced lid system and angle-iron stand are very heavy-duty on the DaVinci kilns, and make even the heaviest lid easy to lift.
  • The control panels on most DaVinci kilns (except the X2327, X2336 and X2345 which use a Jupiter panel mounted on the kiln) are floor standing and feature 50 amp circuits.
  • The DynaTrol on the DaVinci kilns (again except for the X2300 series models mentioned) is a handheld model that attaches to the kiln with a four-foot cable and can hang on the wall or the panel.
  • The DaVinci kilns use 3” brick.
  • DaVinci kilns and Jupiter share many of the same options like kiln sitter back-up for automatic kilns, bottom elements, etc.
  • The Easy-Fire kilns were designed to meet the need for an uncomplicated easy-to-buy kiln that meets the needs of majority of kiln users.
  • The Jupiter kilns are primarily used when customization is required.
  • For instance, you can get Jupiter kilns in taller models (45" and even higher for custom kilns).
  • Jupiter kilns are also useful because of their ability to be easily pulled apart which makes them great for sculptors.
  • Overview

    The Easy-Fire and School-Master kilns are very similar. The Easy-fire kilns are our flagship kiln series. Many thousands are installed around the world. However, as great as it is, some users have a need for a simpler controller and do not require the complexity of the three-zone control; this is why we designed the School-Master kiln series. It is extremely simple, yet has all of the durability and ease-of-use much like our fantastic "Easy-Lift, Easy-Load" spring-loaded lid.

    Easy-Fire School-Master
    • One-Touch™ control features extremely intuitive operation with an easy to configure Bisque and Glaze program.
    • Single Zone.
    • Two basic sizes - 7 cubic feet and 10 cubic feet.
    • Graded elements for uniformity rather than zone control.
    • Five-year warranty.
    • Limited to Cone 6 even though it has the power to go to Cone 10 on some configurations. This prevents most problems caused by normal wear and tear.
  • All kilns are shipped from our factory in Swedesboro, NJ (10 miles south of Philadelphia PA).
  • Click here for more information.
  • Class 110 for kilns.
  • Class 55 for parts.
  • This latch should be closed/used during firing of the kiln. We provide it because the lid is light enough with the spring hinge so that it could rise slightly during firing.

    If you prefer the lid to be heavier you can adjust the spring tension using the alternate slot in the back, or remove one of the springs or change the way the the spring is installed.

  • We include many firing tip brochures from Orton.
  • For a more in depth explanation, Orton has a great booklet called Successful Firing Practices. They also have a number of other booklets available, such as Cones and Firing (20 pages), Using Orton Cones/Temperature Charts, Kiln Safety Booklet, Kiln-Sitter Maintenance & Repair and Porcelain Firing Guide. Contact Orton at 614-895-2663 for more information.
  • In addition, L&L sells several books about firing electric kilns. Visit Hotkilns.com/books.pdf for more details.
  • Also our Knowledgebase has a lot of information on typical ceramic firing problems.
  • See our information on how to fire a manual kiln.
  • See our description of the Ceramic Firing Process
  • Parts are available direct from the factory.
  • We typically ship 1 to 3 days after we get an order. We can ship next day air if you are in a rush. (There may be an additional charge for rush orders that need to be made).
  • Ordering Parts.
  • Click here for information on payment terms.
  • Click here for Freight and Handling charges.
  • Click here for Export Shipments.
  • Most of our distributors provide repair service.
  • We keep a database with the names of local kiln service people that we find out about.
  • Call us for a name and we'll see if we can help you.
  • Check the local yellow pages.
  • L&L kilns are designed for easy service.
  • Most qualified electricians should be able to help with service.
  • L&L kilns are perhaps the simplest kiln on the market in terms of repairability so most people are either able to do their own repair work or find a competent non-specialist to help.
  • Your kiln should be in a covered, enclosed space.
  • Even if you live in a dry location, dew will form on the kiln if it is located outside.
  • A basement or garage is usually a good location.
  • Preferably the floor should be concrete.
  • There must be at least 12" (preferably 18") from the walls of the kiln to any walls of the room.
  • Keep all flammables away from the kiln.
  • The room should be vented with either good natural ventilation or a forced ventilation fan. See this for why ventilation is essential.
  • See our great installation checklist and description of various important considerations you need to make before you buy a kiln.
  • On the Easy-Fire e28T-3 kiln (and School-Master SM28T-3) you will find the cone rating is limited by the KW of the kiln. On single phase kilns, because of the 48 amp restriction before you get into more expensive branch fusing, all of the kiln manufacturers limit the KW to around 11.5. However, when you have three phase available it is possible to increase the KW of the kiln without going over the 48 amp restriction. We take advantage of that possibility while it seems that some other kiln companies do not.

    There is an electrical code rule in the US that allows you to have any appliance that draws 48 amps or less not have what are called "branch fusing". Branch fusing is where there are fuses for each separate circuit in the kiln. We do this on our larger Jupiter kilns, DaVinci kilns and eQuad-Pro kilns for instance. The extra fusing makes the control panel larger and the kiln more expensive. Also the 40 amp limitation allows us to provide the kiln with a 50 amp plug which most people find convenient over direct electrical hook up.

    Also, a 48 amp fuse requires a 60 amp circuit breaker because the National Electrical Code states that you must have 125% higher fuse or circuit breaker size for the device than the amperage of the device.

    All Easy-Fire kilns use this 48 amp code restriction, so they do not have branch fusing. For all models, except the single phase e28T kilns, 48 amps is enough power in the kiln to allow the kiln to reach cone 10. In the single phase e28T, however, the number of watts per square inch of inside kiln surface area is much less than in the other models and is not enough to reach Cone 10. This is also true for the same reasons in our competitors' kilns. (See here for more information)

    If you have three phase available we are able to increase the number of watts while still staying below the amperage limitation. (By the way not every kiln manufacturer takes advantage of this ability of three phase to carry more watts).

    The other recommendation, if you need Cone 10 operation and can't get 3 phase (which is hard to get in a residential installation) and want a 10 cubic foot kiln, is to get an eQ28T (eQuad-Pro) or a JD2927 (Jupiter). The single phase versions of these kilns will easily go to Cone 10. You will need a larger electrical circuit to run these kilns however.

  • We invented them.
  • We have a design patent on them.
  • They are expensive.
  • It is one of the great value-added features of L&L kilns.
  • See this for more information on L&L Ceramic element holders.
  • Replacement elements made by L&L Kiln Mfg., Inc. are designed for each individual model for long life and superior performance.
  • Good element design is a complex balance of many factors.
  • It takes hours and years of experience to design a good element for each model. 
  • You can't expect an outside supplier with little interest in your kiln performance or long experience with L&L kilns to spend the necessary time to do this right.
  • In the end you will not save money if you have bad performance or shortened element life. 
  • We keep our element prices reasonable.
  • The short answer is no - working on your kiln will NOT void the warranty.
  • L&L kilns are designed for self-service.
  • All we ask is that you advise us of the problem and get our advice before you do any major work.
  • The use of non-L&L parts may void the warranty.