KNOWLEDGEBASE & FAQS
Installation
Yes - there is an installation checklist.
Yes, it is okay to feed the kiln from a Wye transformer as long as it provides 208V between all hot legs, and you should note on the order form that your electrical service is Wye, not Delta.
We recommend installing your kiln on a separate circuit, preferably coming from your main electrical panel. It should have its own circuit breaker or fused disconnect switch.
Circuit breakers that have tripped and been reset repeatedly will be more likely to trip at a lower amperage than they are rated for.
L&L's official recommendation is for an electrician to connect the kiln to power.
Click here for information on how to find out what voltage you have.
On most L&L Kilns this is very easy to do. It is a matter of re-distributing the wires between the kiln fuses or relays and the main powerblock inside the control box.
This consists of the main power cord, receptacle, powerblock, wire, and breakers.
It's fine to replace kiln elements yourself if you're careful, but using the wrong elements or wiring them incorrectly can damage the kiln or even cause a fire, since the supply wiring can carry more power than the kiln’s internal components are designed to handle.
Running a kiln on three-phase power doesn't reduce energy costs since kilowatt-hour usage remains the same, but it allows for smaller wiring, more stable power, and potentially better performance—especially for larger kilns—so it's worth checking with your electric company and electrician to weigh the local cost, load, and installation factors.
The power supply cord originally supplied with K18 kilns is only a three-wire cord. The third wire is actually a "neutral" wire, not a ground wire.
All L&L Kilns that are over 48 amps are direct wired. That means that there is a power connection block inside the control panel.
A GFCI (or GFI) breaker or outlet is a safety device that shuts off power if it detects a current imbalance, but it may trip during kiln operation because the firebrick allows tiny current leaks to ground—especially above 1700°F—so GFCI protection is generally not recommended for kiln power circuits.
Branch Fusing Included On High Powered UnitsAccording to the the National electrical Code electrical equipment needs branch fusing when the total amperage draw is higher than 48 amps.
220 volts, 3 phaseIf you have 220 volts and 3 phase power available, the kiln will come with a 3-wire powerblock for the 3 hot wires that give the 3 phase.
Basics
When you are installing the circuit for your new kiln, it is important to use the correct type and thickness of wire.
See our great information on electricity and voltage.
If the kiln were 3 sections with wires running to N, L1, L2, and L3 all 3 amp readings (L1, L2, and L3) would be the same. On a 2 section kiln the wires run only to N, L1 and L2.
Yes, you can safely use a cone 10 electric kiln in your well-ventilated garage as long as you keep flammable materials at least 36" away, ensure no fuel or oil is spilled nearby, and understand that while the kiln gives off heat, it does not emit flammable fumes.
Your kiln should be in a covered, enclosed space. Even if you live in a dry location, dew will form on the kiln if it is outside. A basement or garage is usually a good loca
While airflow in a garage helps reduce fume-related corrosion, a properly installed kiln vent fully exhausts fumes—significantly reducing corrosion, extending element and thermocouple life, and potentially increasing element lifespan by up to 40%, making it a highly recommended investment.
Assembly
For all Easy-Load kilns (except the EL3048): With the door all the way open the kiln will go through a 34-1/2" wide door.
There are two normal tension adjustments for the Easy-Lift Spring Hinge.
Yes, the lid latch on an Easy-Fire kiln should be used during firing to keep the front of the lid secured—this prevents it from lifting due to heat, while still allowing the back to move freely and relieve expansion stress.
This latch should be closed/used during firing of the kiln. We provide it because the lid is light enough with the spring hinge so that it could rise slightly during firing.
Setting up an L&L kiln is straightforward thanks to its sectional design, which allows easy transport—even through tight spaces—with simple stacking, leveling, plugging in the control panel, and having an electrician connect power; setup instructions with photos are included on the carton, and additional help is available through L&L’s online video library.
The hinge piece that attaches to the lid has to "ears". These must go on the outside of the hinge piece that attaches to the body of the kiln.
The discs are placed in the element holders to keep the elements from coming out during shipment. It is a good idea to keep them in place during at least the first firing.
On Type S thermocouples, the factory follows European labeling where red is positive and black is negative, but the U.S. lead wire uses red for negative and black for positive—so as long as the wires are connected consistently, reversed polarity will just trigger an alarm, not damage the kiln.
Two Zone Kiln (2 sections)TC1 is the top and TC2 is the bottom.Three Zone Kiln (with 3 sections)TC1 is the top, TC2 is the middle and TC3 is the bottom.
How much does a kiln top or kiln section weigh?
Ventilation
To calculate the required ventilation for a kiln, divide its BTU/hour output by 1.085 times the temperature difference between the desired room temp (max 120°F) and the outside temp, using the formula: **CFM = BTU/hour ÷ (1.085 × ΔT)**.
For glaze firings up to 2190°F, it’s recommended to keep the Vent-Sure vent on throughout the entire heating process to remove corrosive fumes, then turn it off during cooling unless a faster cool-down is desired, as most outgassing ends once the kiln begins to cool.
You can likely connect the DaVinci kiln to your existing vent system, but you'll need to ensure the fan has sufficient CFM to handle the added volume—L&L's Vent-Sure system uses a 130 CFM fan for about 20 cubic feet of kiln space—so while testing your current setup may be fine, it might be simpler and more reliable to install the recommended factory vent.
It’s perfectly fine to vent the L&L Vent-Sure system through a roof, as long as the fan motor is within 60 feet of the kiln and elbows are minimized; just note that it vents corrosive fumes—not heat—so small rooms will still need separate ventilation for heat removal.
There is no problem whatsoever venting the kiln out of the roof as long as you take precautions to protect the opening like you would any roof vent.
The motor extends 7" off the wall. Motor dimensions are 8" x 7". Wall plate dimensions are 10" x 8", and the tube through the wall is 4" Diameter x 12" long.
While kilns have long been operated by simply leaving the top peep hole open for ventilation, a powered downdraft vent like L&L’s Vent-Sure greatly improves safety and performance by actively removing hazardous fumes—such as carbon monoxide—and enhancing heat distribution, making proper exterior venting essential.
Proper kiln ventilation addresses three key issues: removing hazardous fumes like carbon monoxide for safety, managing room heat buildup with ambient ventilation, and protecting kiln performance by venting corrosive gases that can damage components—something a downdraft system like Vent-Sure is specifically designed to do.
The molecules of air (which expand during the heating of the kiln) do not carry many BTUs. The hottest the air gets at the output of the motor is about 140°F.
Before you purchase oil, check to be sure that you do not have a motor with sealed bearings. A motor with sealed bearings is permanently lubricated and does not require oil.
L&L makes a vent control that allows you to control when you vent is one.
To ensure your kiln vent system is working safely and effectively, use a carbon monoxide monitor and perform the “Smoke Method” to check airflow, keep the bypass valve properly adjusted, and maintain the system by inspecting for leaks, corrosion, and buildup—cleaning the fan and duct regularly and using a water trap if venting vertically to protect the motor.
The Vent-Sure is controlled with a manual on/off switch on the cord of the vent. You could also plug it into a switched circuit if you want to. It can be on the whole time the kiln is firing.
The Vent-Sure vent system can support up to 60 feet of duct with four 90° bends using 3" inlet and 4" outlet ducts, and to maintain effective airflow, keep static pressure below 0.50 in wc—beyond this, you'll need to calculate system pressure to avoid reducing performance.
The Vent-Sure downdraft kiln vent is pulling not only air but moisture and the products of hot moinsture and the chemicals that are present in the clay.
To automatically turn on an external room ventilation system during kiln firing, use the "SAFETY" output on Genesis or DynaTrol controls to trigger a 12V relay—wired with one leg to the SAFETY output and the other to ground—then use the relay contacts to switch your ventilation system on and off with the kiln program.
To interlock an automatic kiln so it won’t fire unless the ventilation system is on, break the common 12V wire from the “CT” terminal on the control using a normally open contact on a control relay, and power that relay’s coil with your vent system—so the kiln only operates when the vent confirms airflow or is switched on.
If not using a Vent-Sure downdraft vent, manually vent your kiln by propping the lid 1" open until 600°F (then close it), removing all peephole plugs until 1000°F, reinserting lower plugs at that point, keeping the top plug out until peak temperature, and removing all peeps again at 1000°F during cooldown for faster cooling.
|
April 14, 2025
