Element Troubleshooting

Error 1

If your controller shows an Error 1, E1, E-1, or Err1 error code, it means that your kiln is slowing down and can no longer reach temperature. There are three leading causes of this in order of likelihood:

1. Your elements have aged and need to be replaced. This is most likely when you notice the kiln gradually slowing down.
2. One or more contacts or relays have failed. This is most likely if you notice a sudden change.
3. You have a low voltage problem. This is most likely if you find this happening in the summer.

Why does an older kiln slow down?

Aging elements will be slowly eaten away by the atmosphere in the kiln. They will also increase in their resistance, which decreases the amount of amperage and, ultimately, the amount of heat given off by the elements. This is why older kilns sometimes fire slowly and may not reach their maximum temperature. Periodic element resistance readings using the multimeter will allow you to check the “health” of your elements. Of course, a slow-firing kiln is the first indication that you have an element problem.

Elements expand and grow with age

If you use low-fire clay and glaze (never firing above cone 4) or only bisque fire, your elements will last a long time. This is good to an extent, but you will encounter another problem over time. Elements expand as they age, increasing in length and coil diameter. Although resistance usually increases as the elements age, this expansion can decrease it. As the element expands, it binds up in the corners, pushing individual coils together. This creates shortcuts for the electricity and reduces the material it must pass through. In turn, the resistance in the whole element is reduced. Only the parts of the wire that don’t contact the coils on either side of them will emit heat. If there is a lot of element material jammed in the corners, there won’t be enough material left in the coil to radiate the heat generated by the increased amperage and decreased resistance. More amperage through the electrical components in the controller could cause damage if the situation continues or the resistance drops far enough. Additionally, the expanding diameter of the elements can make them challenging to remove from the holders

This won’t typically happen to those firing at higher temperatures because increases in resistance quickly compromise the kiln’s maximum temperature, requiring the elements to be changed long before they can jam up in the corners. High temperatures and glaze firings are also more prone to eating through the element, causing it to fail before the element can expand enough to cause the problems mentioned above. Occasionally, use a multi-meter and visually inspect your elements.

What if I see charred and blackened corners?

When the coils bunch up in the corners, they may not always touch each other. However, they could be close enough to allow electricity to ‘arc’ across the gap. This arc can generate extreme temperatures. Charred and blackened corners of the kiln are clear warning signs of this potential problem.

Do not confuse this with randomly sized sections of the coils glowing more quickly than other sections. This is normal and can even be observed with new elements. The wire’s annealing process causes this and does not adversely affect the elements’ operation in the kiln.

Factors shortening element life

• Contamination such as glaze or kiln wash. Silica, a main ingredient of both, attacks the element wire.
• Tightly wound areas on element coils. The elements must be stretched evenly. If the element coils are bunched up along the length of the element it can overheat. See the section below on stretching elements.
• Glaze rubbing off onto the holders and elements when loading the kiln. If this occurs, thoroughly vacuum the element holders immediately.
• Exploding bisque ware. This can blow bits of clay into the element holders. Temperatures are much higher next to the elements and may exceed the clay melting temperature. If not removed, the clay may melt, contaminating the element. To avoid this, only fire bone dry clay. For thick pieces, fire on low for an extended period or use the preheat feature on your controller. If you hear a “pop” when firing such pieces, stop firing and cool the kiln. If an explosion has occurred, thoroughly vacuum all element holders.

• Firing pieces too close to the elements. We recommend at least a 1-1/2” gap between pieces and elements, further if large flat surfaces are parallel to the kiln wall.
• A reducing atmosphere. This will destroy elements. Iron-chrome-aluminum elements require an oxidizing atmosphere. Do not use wood chips, oils, or other materials to generate a reduction firing. Rapid element failure may result. NOTE: Reducing atmospheres are the opposite of oxidation atmospheres (i.e. normal air). The name comes from the ability of a reducing atmosphere to “reduce” oxides.
• Various fumes from oils, waxes, carbon, fluorine, or lead glazes are present. The aluminum in the Iron-chrome-aluminum elements forms a protective oxide coating. This coating is attacked by many things, including oils, carbon from wax burnout, free carbon, halogens such as chlorine or fluorine, halogen salts, the salts of alkali metals, nitrates, silicates, borax compounds, iron oxides, and molten metals such as zinc, aluminum, copper, lead, and their oxides. Use a kiln vent if you use lead glazes (or cause any of these problems). Fire frequently with a noncorrosive load, such as a bisque firing. This will help the elements restore their protective oxide coating. Note that clay almost always has organics, sulfur, and fluorine. This is one reason why proper venting is critical for your kiln’s long, trouble-free life and operation.
• Excessive soaking time. The higher the temperature, the longer the soak, the sooner the element will increase in resistance and decrease in life. Usually, short soaks work fine.
• Using 3rd party elements. A number of people sell “replacement elements” for kilns without the proper design information. It is easy to make an element with the same wattage as an L&L element but without the other qualities contributing to a long life. Designing an element is a complicated process that balances things like voltage, wire diameter, watt density, stretch ratio, etc.
• Make sure all elements are heating. If all elements are not doing their share of the work, then the other elements will not last as long.

Terminal Burn-out

Sometimes, the ends of the elements can burn out at the terminal hardware connections. This can be due to any or all of the following causes:

• The element tails are not twisted properly. Extra heat could be generated at the element’s end if the twist is too loose.
• The element through-holes are too large. This could cause too much heat to escape from the kiln, thereby overheating the terminal connections. This can be remedied by lightly stuffing ceramic fiber (we have non-RCF ceramic fiber available) in the through-holes
• The terminal hardware may not be tight enough. A loose connection can generate heat and cause the hardware to oxidize, which in turn will cause a worse electrical connection and more heat. Replace it with new hardware and tighten it properly.
• The terminal hardware should be stainless steel. Check to see if it is in good shape. If not, replace it with stainless steel hardware, or if need be, replace the whole terminal block assembly with one of our new ones.