How to fix PF, E- P, E-P, ErrP Error

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  • The Knowledgebase is organized into a series of questions and answers having to do mostly with technical troubleshooting and understanding of kilns.
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For these older kilns

How to fix PF, E- P, E-P, ErrP Error
  1. The ErrP (PF, E- P, E-P in some older models) comes from a reset of the processor during a firing. Things that can cause a reset are power loss, shorted relay coil, or electrical noise on the microprocessor circuit.
  2. The shorted relay coil is easy. Every time the controller tries to turn on the relay the display will go blank.
  3. A pilot relay set up (like in a DaVinci or Easy-Load panel) is usually the only time we have a noise issue. The cure includes a MOV across the contacts of the pilot relay (we do as standard). Moving wires away from the back of the controller and making sure the low Voltage wires and TC wires are not woven with the power wires is also important. See this link for more information on electrical noise.
  4. The power loss is a little trickier since it is usually intermittent. It could be a bad connection, a bad fuse holder or transformer issue - anything that interupts power to the control. For instance, a transformer that has a broken wire at one of the terminals could cause this (making contact most of the time but heat or vibration would open the connection).
  5. What do you do if this happens while you are firing?
  6. Try running a new program and just see if the control works. Seeing a PF could just mean that you had a power failure but all is OK now.

Additional Actions to Take

  1. Make sure the circuit breaker or fused disconnect switch is turned on.
  2. If you have a circuit breaker flip it back and forth to make sure that it is really on. Some circuit breakers, if they have tripped, will not be obviously in a tripped position. By flipping it back and forth you will reset the circuit breaker.
  3. Check voltage of your power supply at the receptacle using your multi-meter set to the next highest AC voltage above 240 (typically this will be 600 volts but may be 250)
  4. Check fuses for voltage continuity. You can do this with your multi-meter.
  5. Make sure fuses or circuit breaker are/is the proper amperage and type. See your wiring diagram for the required fuse type.

CAUTION: This test should only be done by an experienced person familiar with electricity.

The control board needs to be replaced if:

  1. The transformer is OK.
  2. You know you have voltage going to the control board but the control still shows no display.
  3. You know you have voltage going to the control board but there is no output form the control to the power relays (even if you have display). In this case the little transistors inside the control that regulate output are not functioning).
  1. Unplug kiln.
  2. Remove the control box and remove the insulation panel.
  3. Using needle nose pliers pull of the wires from the transformer. It can take significant force to remove the spade connectors.
  4. Unscrew the two nuts that hold the control transformer onto the panel and remove the transformer.
  5. Before installing the new transformer put the small jumper wire onto terminals #2 and #3 on the bottom row of terminals. Note the little numbers by the contacts.

  1. Unplug kiln.
  2. Remove the four #6 screws that hold the control in place from the front face of the control panel.
  3. Remove the control box and remove the insulation panel.
  4. Pull of the spade connectors from all the connection points on the back of the control. Loosen the screws that hold down the thermocouple wires and pull out the wires from under the screw heads. It is OK to remove the screws if this is easier for you. First not where all the wires go. These are all clearly marked with color coding on the Wiring Diagram.
  5. Pull old control out. Put new control in and screw in place with the #6 mounting screws. Replace wires on proper connectors.
  6. Be careful to get the Red or Yellow of the thermocouple wires to match the colors painted on the control board.
  7. Double check that the proper color coded wire goes to the proper terminal (Orange = OUT, Purple = AC1, Green = CT, Gray = AC2).
  1. Unplug kiln.
  2. Remove the control box and the insulation panel.
  3. Remove the wires to the relay.
  4. Remove the nuts from the studs that hold the relay in place. Remove old relay and replace with new one.
  5. Visually inspect the wire connectors. Do they look corroded or "cooked"? Are the wires frayed? Any corrosion on the wire itself? If any of this is questionable you should replace the appropriate wires.
  6. Reconnect all wires. Visually inspect to make sure the spade connectors are down as far as they can go and feel to see that they are tight (a gentle tug should not remove one). If they are loose for some reason remove the wire and slightly squeeze the spade connector with pliers to tighten it.
  7. See this video.

IMPORTANT: The slip on wire connectors cannot be loose or corroded. If there is a bad connection then heat will be generated and the component that they slip onto (relay, terminal strip, etc) may overheat and fail. If you squeeze the slip on terminal to make it tighter–be sure to squeeze it evenly so that one side is not tight and the other loose. If there are any doubts about the integrity of the wire or the connector replace the whole wire or harness.