How to fix E-1 or Err1

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How to fix E-1 or Err1

Possible Reasons for E-1 and Err1

E- 1 errors read as "Err1" on controls manufactured before 2006

  1. If Err1 is the error code on the screen when you check on the firing, then for some reason the kiln could not generate enough heat to counter the heat loss. If the kiln can get no hotter (even though all the elements appear to be on and the program is not holding), then Err1 is what you will see. If one of the elements or one of the circuits in the control fails while the kiln is at a high enough temperature, then it will probably display an Err8 code (which means temperature is falling when it should be rising) Err1 or Err8 can mean either you need new elements or a new component in one of the circuits. An ohms test and a voltage test can tell you which it is. If you recently changed locations, power supplies, elements, or did any repairs, then closely examine what changed between your last successful firing and this one. There may be some other issue besides bad elements or a bad component.
  2. A new location can mean a 208 volt power supply rather than a 240 volt supply (about 25% less power).
  3. In re-wiring the power supply you may not have used thick enough copper wire (line, conduit and connection points will be very hot).
  4. Check out the thermocouples. When they wear out they often don't read accurately at high temperatures, which can produce an Error 1 code.
  5. Non-standard elements from an unauthorized supplier have too much resistance, or you did not hook them up properly (leaving the jumper wire out of a J230 section will double the resistance in that circuit and only one of the two elements will be used. Always use a ohms meter to check the element and circuit ohms.)
  6. If you rewire anything improperly or incorrectly the potential for anything from a blown breaker to just no power at all is possible. (Using wire with a temperature rating of less than 150°F can seriously limit the life of the circuitry and can be dangerous as well, especially when the wires are close to the kiln. Use a wire diagram and trace every wire to check yourself). You can buy high temperature wire from L&L.
  7. Loading may be uneven- try putting two elements between the bottom two shelves and add more mass to the upper areas in the kiln.
  8. Loading may be too close to the thermocouples.
  9. Some or all of the elements may be worn out. You may notice slower and slower firing over time, with bisques still ok, no clicking at the top temperatures and uneven results. E- d codes are possible too.
  10. Wrong voltage power- These cases are usually a school that has a 240 volt kiln. 99 out of 100 schools run on 208 volts not 240 volts.
  11. Power cord is overheating in the outlet/ up against the side of the kiln or some other connection point is overheating, this can always be seen- will look overheated and will be hot when kiln has been on for a while. Voltage test near the elements will show this too.
  12. Element(s) out- broken inside the kiln, look for damage or perform a paper test.
  13. Element(s) out- a wire bringing power is burned off.
  14. Element(s) out- the center relay is out. The kiln section's temp may noticeably lag behind at med/ high temperatures. Top or bottom relay failure usually gives an E- d
  15. Thermocouples reading unevenly (from age or loading unevenly or too close to the thermocouple).
  16. Different style thermocouples used in same kiln
  17. DaVinci/ Handheld only- Check Handheld 14-pin connector for poor connection. Wiggle the connection point carefully while running the kiln and listen for relays to correspondingly go off and on as you wiggle it.
  18. Summertime voltage, or just poor voltage in general, can be from wrong sized wire or too long a run. This problem is compounded by longer and longer firings as elements prematurely age.
  19. Lid/ Hinge out of adjustment- lid opens a bit in the front when hot.
  20. The gauge of the hookup wire is not large enough which creates a voltage drop and reduces power to the kiln. See this link for more information.

Error 1 at Low Temperatures

Sometimes you will get an E-1 at a low temperature due to the confluence of several variables.

  1. The first possibility from is that the kiln's load is uneven relative to the element heating zones and their thermocouples. This especially if the bottom is loaded heavily compared to the top. Be sure the bottom shelf of the kiln is under the bottom element and up on at least 1/2" tall posts.  Then use 8" posts to place the next shelf high enough to allow two elements (or bottom 3 elements if your kiln has 3 elements in the bottom section) to shine into the bottom area of the kiln.
  2. The second possibility is that there is something too close to a thermocouple in one kiln section, but not in another. Try to keep everything at least 1" from a thermocouple.
  3. The third possibility is perhaps a result of the way the kiln acts normally at low temperatures. Because of the thermocouple protection tubes, a change in temperature does not affect the thermocouple in the tube for a few seconds. During that few seconds, until the change of temperature is felt by the thermocouple in the tube, the kiln continues to heat. Normally this matters very little. All it does is make the firing little jerky at first. It will rise a few degrees, wait for the set point, rise a few more degrees, wait, rise, wait etc.  The hotter it gets the more it rises and the less it waits.

It is rare for any one of these variables to cause E-1 by itself, but when these variables get together it is possible for the kiln to climb slower than 12 degrees per hour for 22 minutes while waiting for the set point to catch up at low temperatures- and that is where you can get E-1. E-1 at a low temperature will sometimes be proceeded by one of the thermocouple readings lagging behind the others. Try to be sure about the loading and perhaps- if it is OK for the clay- try a Fast Bisque instead. Usually E-1 at low temperatures will not happen on faster programs because the kiln is spending more time heating and the set point is rising faster.

Additional Actions to Take

Check Circuit Breaker or Fuses
  1. Make sure the circuit breaker or fused disconnect switch is turned on.
  2. If you have a circuit breaker flip it back and forth to make sure that it is really on. Some circuit breakers, if they have tripped, will not be obviously in a tripped position. By flipping it back and forth you will reset the circuit breaker.
  3. Check voltage of your power supply at the receptacle using your multi-meter set to the next highest AC voltage above 240 (typically this will be 600 volts but may be 250)
  4. Check fuses for voltage continuity. You can do this with your multi-meter.
  5. Make sure fuses or circuit breaker are/is the proper amperage and type. See your wiring diagram for the required fuse type.

CAUTION: This test should only be done by an experienced person familiar with electricity.

Check if Elements Have Differentially Changed in Resistance
  1. Empty the kiln.
  2. Turn kiln on using a fast program such as FAST GLAZE (USr3) until elements are red.
  3. Open the door carefully and check if each of the elements are glowing with approximately the same brightness.

CAUTION: The power does not turn off when the lid is opened. Do NOT put your hand inside the kiln while it is on.

Check internal wires
  1. Unplug kiln or turn off circuit breaker if the kiln is wired direct to your power supply. If you can not physically be sure the power is disconnected (for instance is you see that the cord is unplugged you KNOW there is no power coming into the kiln) then check the voltage at the power connection pluck with your multi-meter.
  2. Unplug kiln.
  3. Open up the control panel. This will be a little different on each kiln series.
  4. Remove or open the panels that cover the element connections.
  5. Look at internal wiring.
  6. Specifically look at wires going from power connection block to the on/off switch, then to the control fuse, and finally to the control transformer.
  7. Make sure all wires inside control panel are connected.
  8. Look for any burned spots or deteriorating wire.
  9. Look for any short circuits. This might be caused by a wire loosing its insulation and touching another component for instance. Typically if there are any short circuits there will be some evidence of a burn on the metal the wire touched.
  10. Look for dirt or foreign material. Some material can be an electrical conductor and could cause a short circuit. Clean out any dirt.
  11. Check all power wires for firm connections.
  12. Pull off and reseat all spade connector connections of power wires to remove oxides and ensure good connection.
Check power cord
  1. Make sure power cord is plugged in.
  2. Reseat the plug. Pull it out of the receptacle and put it back it. This will reseat the connections.
  3. Also, sometimes the female socket and/or the male spades get oxidized (which can resist the flow of electricity). Reseating them can disturb this oxide layer.
  4. When you do this examine the plugs for any signs of burning or overheating. If the spades look oxidized you can rub them with steel wool to shine them.
  5. Make sure the plug is held firmly and that the springs inside the receptacle seem to be working.
  6. Look for any damage on the cord itself.
  7. Make sure the cord is not touching the kiln case.

CAUTION: This test should only be done by an experienced person familiar with electricity and its dangers.

Check Power Relay
  1. One way to easily check relays is to look at the kiln elements through the peepholes when the kiln is firing. If you know your elements are OK after having done an ohm test and the elements are not glowing then you should suspect the relays.
  2. Another way to check the relays (or bad elements) is to check the temperatures of each zone by pressing "1", "2" and "3" in sequence and recording the temperatures of each thermocouple at intervals over the length of the firing. If one zone is consistently firing at a lower temperature then you probably have either burned out elements or a bad relay.
  3. If the relay does not make a soft clicking noise when the kiln is turned on try turning the kiln off and on and then restarting the program.
  4. Remove panel.
  5. Set your multi-meter the approximately 24 volts AC. Check the voltage coming into the coil of the Power Relay. You can tell which wires these are because they will be the small wires coming from the control. This test will tell you if you are getting power to the relay coil which actuates the relay. Unless the relay is actuated by the control you will get no output from the power side of the relay.
  6. With panel plugged in and firing check output from Power Relay with your digital multi-meter. The meter should be set to the next highest voltage above 240 volts AC. Output should be approximately the rated voltage of the kiln when it is supposed to be calling for power to the elements.

CAUTION: LIVE ELECTRICITY IS INVOLVED WITH SOME OF THESE TESTS. This test should only be done by an experienced person familiar with electricity.

See this video:

Check thermocouple tip
  1. Carefully examine thermocouple tip. This is the exposed welded joint at the end of the thermocouple that is not covered up by the ceramic tube.
  2. To do this you will have to remove the thermocouple from its protection tube (if it is a kiln that has one of our protection tubes). You can do this with the kiln disconnected from power.
  3. Look for corrosion - especially if it severe. These thermocouple tips will oxidize and otherwise corrode over time. That is normal. There is some point, however, at which the corrosion affects the ability of the tip to work (thermocouples work by generating a small voltage at the tip caused by two different metals reacting to each other).
  4. Make sure the two wires are securely joined. One of the things that can cause an intermittent problem is a bad weld. If the two wires touch each other (even if they are not welded) they may work temporarily. However, if the weld is not secure then the wires could separate when the kiln heats up and cause an intermittent failure.
  5. If the thermocouple tip looks healthy then test the control board.
Check Your Voltage
  1. Check your voltage at the receptacle or at your fused disconnect box. Check voltage at your panel and where the kiln is connected. Check the voltage when the kiln is firing and when it is not firing.
  2. Make sure no other large electrical appliances such as a clothes dryer or electric oven are on when you are operating your kiln.
  3. Find out from your local utility company when the end of the peak period of electrical use is.
  4. Check to see what the wire size of your circuit is. If it is very far (more than 50 feet) from your main circuit box then the wire size might need to be higher.
Checking Element Ohms on an E18S model L&L Kiln
  • Unplug kiln.
  • Open the outer control box. See the Assembly Instructions if necessary.
  • Using your Multimeter set on Resistance or Ohms, 200, check resistance on the wires numbered 1 and 2 and then again between 3 and 4.  These wires are thick black wires that attach to the terminal strip that carry power from the relays to the elements.
  • If you check the resistance at this point, the values you should get are as follows: 240 Volt Elements: 20.8 ohms, 220 Volt Elements: 17.6 ohms, 208 Volt Elements: 15.6 ohms.
  • The values should be within 6-12% of the listed values. Typically the resistance increases over time and use, and this makes the power generated by the elements decrease. Depending on the temperature one is firing at, wider variation may not be problematic.
  • In addition, here are the values for the individual elements: 240 Volt Elements: 10.4 ohms, 220 Volt Elements: 8.8 ohms, 208 Volt Elements: 7.8 ohms. Individual element resistance values are important as a way to provide a means of checking specific element resistance before you put elements in the kiln.

See this tutorial on how to use a multimeter.


Checking Elements

EASY-FIRE, DURA-FIRE, EQUAD-PRO, LIBERTY-BELLE

  1. With all power OFF, pace the test leads of the multimeter of the each of two of the terminals marked 1 and 2, 3 and 4, or 5 and 6 on the element terminal strip. Compare the reading you get to the reading you get from the other element terminals. Also check against the wiring diagram for the ohms listing.

JUPITER, DAVINCI

  1. With all power OFF, pace the test leads of the multimeter of the two flat prongs of each section's jumper cord, one on each prong, OR on both connecting wires, at the connection points with the elements. Compare the reading you get to the reading you get from the other jumper cords or connecting wires. Also check against the wiring diagram for the ohms.

See this tutorial on how to use a multimeter.

Examine all wiring for short circuits, bad connections, and burned areas.
  1. Check the tightness of all connections. Do this by wiggling the connector to make sure it is not loose.
  2. Examine all connections for any sign of oxidation or discoloration.
  3. Examine all wires for signs that the wire may have burned.
  4. Make sure all wires are connected to their proper connection point. You may have to compare the kiln to the wiring diagram to be sure of this. This step would be particularly important if a wire has come loose.
  5. Look for any place where a wire may have shorted against the metal case or a component.

CAUTION: Turn power off to kiln form the circuit breaker or unplug the kiln.

Fix Lid Seal

Fix lid seal if a bright red glow is visible around the seal when kiln is operating and/or excessive heat loss can be felt around seal.

  1. Rub seal high points down with sandpaper until no more than 1/16 of an inch gap is found at any point along seal.
  2. Check for unevenness in the gap that will cause an excessive heat loss.
  3. Replace lid if it is excessively cracked or worn or has holes in it. Replace lid.
Plug Peepholes
  1. Plug Peepholes in the kiln to prevent drafts.
Replacing Elements
  1. Unplug kiln.
  2. Remove the Control Box.
  3. Using a 3/8" nut driver or ratchet wrench or adjustable wrench, remove the nuts that hold the element end onto the Element Terminal Bolt. Note that the terminal bolt head is held in place by an inset shape on the underside of the ceramic terminal block and it will not turn much.
  4. Untwist the element end from around the Element Terminal Bolt. Straighten it out as much as possible.
  5. In most cases the element can be lifted out of the holder at this point. Sometimes, if the element has really disintegrated, you need to remove it in pieces with needle nose pliers.
  6. If element is hard to get out of the holders (because of growth of the element) you can try heating up the kiln slightly so as to heat up the element slightly to just the point where element is slightly pliable–don't let it get red. This will soften the wire. Then turn off the kiln and disconnect all power to the kiln. Using heat protecting gloves and a pair of needle nose pliers pull out the softened element.
  7. From the inside of the kiln, using needle nose pliers, grab the element as close to where it goes through the brick wall to Terminal Block. Pull the element end through the hole. Be careful not to enlarge the hole in firebrick. The brick is soft and will not take much abrasion.
  8. Be sure to check for failure points for evidence of contamination on the element and the element holder. If the element holder is contaminated it will cause rapid failure of the new element. Replace contaminated holders with the new ones.
  9. Using your multimeter check the resistance of the new element.
  10. Install the twisted ends of the elements through the holes in the wall of the kiln. Element ends should be straight at this point.
  11. Pull them up tight up to the wall of the kiln by pulling from outside the kiln.
  12. Lay the element into the groove. Note that the unfired element is going to have some springiness to it before it is fired for the first time. You may need to use a screwdriver to press the element into the holder. YOU DO NOT NEED PINS.
  13. FOR KILNS WITH NON-CERAMIC TERMINAL BLOCK OR ON RETROFITTED KILNS WHERE YOU HAVE ADDED A CERAMIC TERMINAL BLOCK BUT STILL NEED BUSHINGS: Be sure to replace the insulators and spacers over the element tails.
  14. Consulting your picture or labeling, wrap the appropriate element tails around the appropriate element connection bolt, clockwise, one around and cut off the excess tail.
  15. Install the elements and hardware: Place the wires from the jumper cord or connecting wires onto the appropriate bolts and tighten with stainless steel nuts.
  16. A washer goes under the first element.
  17. Twist the first element end CLOCKWISE around the Terminal Bolt.
  18. The next element gets twisted around the Terminal Bolt on top of the first element.
  19. Another washer goes over the Terminal Bolt.
  20. Place a nut on top and tighten it.
  21. Put another washer on.
  22. Put on the Ring Terminal of the Power Lead Wire.
  23. Put another washer on.
  24. Put another nut on and tighten it. How much the nut can be tightened is dependent on how tight the element connection bolt is on the element connection board. A tight connection is very important, but if you tighten too much and twist the element on the bolt too far you could break the element, the bolt, or the insulator.
  25. Reattach the ground wires and the element box if the kiln has them. DO NOT FORGET TO ATTACH GROUND WIRES. IF EACH KILN SECTION IS NOT GROUNDED THIS CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS.
  26. Test the resistance at the jumper cord's plug head or at the other end of the connecting wires.
  27. Reattach the control box, turn on the kiln and make sure all the elements come on.

See this tutorial on how to use a multimeter.

See this video:

Run a Paper Test
  1. Place a little piece of paper in each element.
  2. Then run a Fast Glaze (or turn the manual switches to Hi on a manual kiln) while you watch the papers.
  3. They begin to smolder in about 2 minutes. After 3 or 4 minutes shut the kiln off.
  4. This shows you if the elements are operating (or which ones are and whinch ones are not).
Stop Heat Leakage
  1. Make sure peepholes are plugged with peephole plugs.
  2. Make sure hole for vent is proper. Check Vent-Sure instructions for proper hole sizes.
  3. If you are using a different brand of vent make sure it is the appropriate size for the kiln. Check with the vent manufacturer and tell them how many cubic feet are in the kiln.
  4. If the lid or bottom is cracked check to see if it seems to leaking much heat at high temperatures. Patch or replace if extreme.
Vary Methods of Loading Weight
  1. If uneven firing occurs persistently, vary methods of loading weight to match the firing characteristics of the kiln.
  2. If elements typically fire hot at the top of the kiln put more weight in the top to absorb that heat, and vice versa.
  3. Ensure that weight is put at posts under the bottom shelf. The bottom shelf should be at least 1/2" to 1" above the floor of the kiln.

TIP: The longer posts can be laid down on their sides to get a perfect amount of space under the bottom shelf.

Wiring in the Kiln
  1. Unplug kiln.
  2. Trace wiring for missing or bad connections.
  3. Check wiring against wiring diagram.
  4. Check for corroded connectors or connectors that have frayed wires. Replace any such connectors.

Applies to these Kiln Series